Marveling at the Elephanta Caves
Depiction of Shiva and his disciples in the Elephanta Caves on January 16, 2023.
After an incredible five days in India, traveling between New Delhi, Agra, and Mumbai, I decided to spend my final morning traveling to the Elephanta Caves. I joined three friends, Tori (who I met in Dubai), Ari, and Erica, and we had a blast marveling at the ancient site.
The City of Caves
The Elephanta Caves are located on Elephanta Island in the Sea of Oman, just off the coast of Mumbai. The caves hold an archaic collection of rock art linked to the cult of Shiva. Some remains are as old as the 2nd century B.C., but Shiva cult members built the rock art in the caves during the mid-5th to 6th centuries A.D. Cave 1, which we visited, is the most important of the caves and measures 39 meters long. Ancient Shive cult members created rock art to honor the Hindu Gods and Goddesses. Hindu symbols and spiritual beliefs are evident in every inch of the cave.
The Journey
We departed from the ship at 8:00 a.m. We needed an early start since we were required to be back on the ship by 4:00 p.m. sharp. We can’t take risks when it comes to on-ship time – every 15 minutes after the on-ship time, a late-comer gains 1 hour of dock time. This means that at another port, they need to be on the ship 1 hour earlier than on-ship time, which means they get less travel time in port. Moral of the story: we need to be on time.
We arrive at the gateway of India, a towering arch overlooking the Sea of Oman, and head to the ferry station next door. After grabbing tickets and running into some SASers (including Raja, my RD!), we board the ferry for the hour-long journey to Elephanta Island.
The ride was smooth overall, and we watched many birds that flew alongside the ferry with us. We spend the ride admiring the ocean, freezing in the brisk breeze, talking amongst ourselves, and buying jewelry from a local vendor.
Finally, we arrive on the island. It’s a cluster of green trees and brown swamp beds littered with remains from old boats. We disembark the ferry and followed the concrete path to the caves, about a 30-minute hike up the mountains.
As we walk, we pass through a local market. Little stands line both sides of the pathway. Vendors wave us over, shouting in thick Hindi accents and flashing magnets, small ivory elephants, silk head scarfs, and “bronze singing bowls.” The vendors covered every inch of the tables with colorful jewelry, ivory vases, plates and cups, and random knick-knacks like thimbles and beaded strings. Some stands served delicious fruit, like pineapples, bananas, and watermelon. Others sold piping hot naan, Indian bread like pita bread, spicy-orange chicken masala, and white rice, a staple to Indian cuisine.
As we ascend stone steps, which get increasingly steep as we go higher up the mountain, a blue cloth stretches over the pathway, shading it from the intense Indian sun. Streaks of sunlight that sneak through the fabric illuminate Chandra incense smoke drifting lazily from the sticks burning at each table. They create an enticing aroma in the air, a burning combination of both spices and flowers. Chandra is the most popular incense fragrance in India. It is used in spiritual rituals to encourage deep relaxation, spiritual energy, and chakra healing.
We attempt to pass through the market quickly, wanting to ensure we have time to explore the caves, but it is an effort to resist ogling the beautiful handmade crafts at each stand. However, we promise to shop on the way down and eventually arrive at the caves.
Exploring the Caves
Across from the entrance to Cave 1, monkeys frolic on a shaded patch of grass. They wrestle with one another, groom each other, and a couple of them play chase with a wild dog (which was also prominent in India).
The entrance to Cave 1 is by far the most grand, with six stone pillars supporting the mouth of the cave. It’s incredible how these pillars are thousands of years old, and yet they remain strong and sturdy. One can take a closer look and see the wear on the stone: small cracks in the pillar, some areas faded and discolored.
Then, one is greeted by Sadashiva, the 7 meter tall sculpture at the back center of the cave. It represents the three core aspects of Shiva: the Creator, the Preserver and the Destroyer. In that order, the faces depict Aghora or Bhairava (left half), Taptapurusha or Mahadeva (central full face), and Vamadeva or Uma (right half).
To the right of Sadashiva, there are depictions of Shiva and his wife Parvati. Around them, children and disciples gather and worship. Despite how old the sculptures are, one can still see insane amounts of detail. Soft smiles on their faces, curled waves in people’s hair, and jewelry and headpieces perfectly intact.
On the wall in front of Shiva and Parvati, another depiction of Shiva is sculpted. His arms and body haven’t quite survived through the years, but his intricate headpiece and the worshippers surrounding him appear as good as new.
One can also spot more faded portrayal of Shiva in a meditative state. Signs of water erosion and wind erosion are visible, as this sculpture is visible from a side entrance of Cave 1.
Another sculpture of Shiva and possibly Parvati. The couple, as usual, is surrounded by devoted followers.
Large columns line the inside of Cave 1 as well, supporting the structure. At the tops, one can see ornate sculptures of Hindu monks on each corner, and lines curving towards the ceiling.
There is many more areas to explore, both inside the caves and around Elephanta Island. There is a rich cultural story embedded in its cave walls and beaten paths. As much as my friends and I would have loved to see it all, we had to return to the ship to depart from Mumbai. As we ferried back to the mainland, I reflected on the past days.
Reflecting on India
Traveling to Mumbai, India was an incredibly surreal experience. Prior to Semester at Sea, the farthest I’d ever traveled from home was to Scotland, when I was a young girl. Then, I was traveling with my family. I didn’t need to worry about planning or costs.
India was completely different. I was on my own in a place totally different from anywhere I’d traveled before. It wasn’t like a vacation, with relaxing hikes or comfortable lodgings and overall predictable circumstances.
I came to India expecting it to be unsafe and sketchy. And while this was true in some instances I realize that it’s true for many places. Too often, India is portrayed in American media in a negative light, and the positives are often not shown. India’s chaos was also beautiful in its own unique way. The country is vivacious and romantic, with a culture rich in music and dance and the creative arts.
I saw some hard sights too. Children approached me in the streets, begging for money and pleading for me to buy their cheap magnets. There were dogs whose ribs sharply protruded from the bodies from a lack of food. There was a mother carrying a newborn who approached me for money, and smiled sadly when I wasn’t able to give her any. It was incredibly eye-opening, but it’s important. Their stories deserve to be told too.
Ultimately, although there were moments where I felt overwhelmed or deeply saddened, there were even more moments where I felt wonderstruck and gratitude for being able to experience this new place and new culture at such a young age. I am beyond thankful for India’s hospitality, and I am indebted to what India taught me. But I know that the lessons I’m learning and experiences I’m living will allow me to repay that debt by ensuring that India isn’t seen as the single story that so many believe.
Additional source:
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/244/
