An Unexpected Oasis in Kenya
Emily, Bella, and Abby watching the sun rise from deck 9 on the MV World Odyssey on January 26, 2023.
On January 26, my friends and I woke up bright and early to witness a foggy but beautiful sunrise as we arrived at our next port of call, Mombasa, Kenya. As we stood on deck 9, bundled up in pullovers and hoodies to escape the nipping cold wind, I felt immense anticipation of being in Kenya.
Making plans with my travel group left me with high expectations. But at the same time, the only expectations I had of Africa were what I’d seen in American media: wild, untamed grasslands filled with animals like lions, zebras, giraffes, and hippos. I’d seen these animals in zoos or in movies like The Lion King.
When we finally docked at the Mombasa Seaport, me and two friends, Sydney and Emily, decided to make the two-hour-long journey to Diani Beach, which travel reviews say is the prettiest beach in Kenya. When I think of Africa, I don’t think of gorgeous beaches that one may find on the cover of a Travel & Leisure, which is why Diani Beach was such an unexpected oasis. It was the perfect way to start my adventures in Kenya.
Taking it all In
Emily, Sydney, and I leave the ship at roughly 9:00 a.m. We take a shuttle bus from the terminal and called an Uber from Castle Rock, the hotel where the shuttle drops us off. We got lucky enough to get John, who offered to be our transportation to and from Diani, as we were only going for the day.
For the first half of the journey, we dealt with massive traffic as cars jammed the road, waiting to board the ferry. We were stopped on the street for a good hour, and it was pretty unpleasant. Sweat dripped down our backs due to the unbearable heat, and we had to leave the windows rolled up so street vendors or beggars wouldn’t approach the car asking for money. The car, of course, had no air conditioning because John usually keeps the windows down. But we make the most of it by talking to John and playing games like I-Spy.
Finally, we get through the traffic and board the ferry. John lets us leave the car and take in the views as we cross Kilindini Port. The water is a gorgeous blue-green, and the breeze is welcoming after the hot car ride. We stand on the railing, take pictures, and talk with one another. It felt like a girls’ trip, which I loved. Traveling with a trio of close friends rather than a large group like in India was a nice change of pace.
Sydney and Emily admiring the water as we traverse across Kilinidini Port aboard the ferry on January 26, 2023.
Once we cross, John drives us through local markets and villages to reach Diani Beach. My attention is glued to the window as I watch the scenery fly by. Locals walk alongside the street, smiling and waving as we pass. The markets are a cluster of makeshift cloth tents, divided by narrow dirt walkways crowded with locals. Vendors sit underneath the shade of the tents, waving at passersby and bargaining trades with shoppers. Small, rickety huts are grouped, with clotheslines crossing from house to house. A mother sits outside one of the huts, a headcloth on her head as she watches her two children chase each other in the dry grass. Everyone seems so happy.
We reach Diani Beach around noon, and we’re eager to see if the beach lives up to its reputation. It does.
A local fisherman docks his boat near the shoreline of Diani Beach on January 26, 2023.
I did not feel like I was in Africa, emerging on the beach. I was in the Bahamas, Bora Bora, or some other distant exotic place I saw in photos on my Pinterest feed. My feet sink into the soft white sand, and a cool ocean breeze caresses my sweaty skin. The crystal blue ocean is dotted with colorful wooden fishing boats and canoes, tended to by locals.
The moment of peace lasts about two seconds before overly friendly locals bombard us with questions about who we are and where we’re from. I told one man, “America,” and he sprang into a tangent about how Kenya loved Americans and explained that we are united because of former President Obama, which I thought was hilarious. As affable as the locals were, they were as pestering as seagulls trying to snatch snacks – we couldn’t escape them and find a quiet place to enjoy the beach. That is until we stumbled upon Asha Bistro.
The Best Bistro in Diani
Little did we know, we had accidentally discovered the #1 rated Diani restaurant on TripAdvisor. Diani Beach was a haven from the eager locals and the intense African heat. Protected by a raised cobblestone platform and wooden fence, the restaurant was shaded by palm trees and nearly empty, with only a few other tourists lying by the pool and sipping drinks. Weaved wooden chairs and white cloth-covered tables await us. A waiter immediately seats us at the perfect table on the edge of the fence, with a spectacular view of the entire beach.
I couldn’t believe our luck. We took our shoes off, ordered drinks and fries, and discussed how we couldn’t believe our lives were real. We stayed at the lounge for the rest of the afternoon, talking and taking turns swimming in the ocean.
When it was my turn, I practically sprinted across the beach to reach the water. I floated to the soft rock of the small waves and tanned while the water kept me cool. Swimming in the crisp, clean water was rejuvenating. I could have stayed there all afternoon but returned to the bistro after some minutes to allow Sydney to swim.
Myself, walking back to the bistro after swimming in the ocean. Photo by Emily Lampi.
A Perfect End to a Perfect Day
We wanted to stay at the beach forever, but around 6:00 p.m., before it got dark, we packed up and headed to Piri Pirie’s. Located in the heart of Diani, the restaurant has a rustic feel, with antique sketches of Diani Beach hanging on the walls, a lamplit bar, and bamboo chairs with woven cushions. It includes a children’s play area in a courtyard, whose walls are painted with designs of trees and fun, colorful cartoon characters like Donald Duck, Tom the Cat, and more. The ceiling is blanketed with colorful cloth creating a tent shape, which reminded me of a circus tent. The play area has books, toys, games, and anything else a child could dream of.
I went outside to look around and met a little boy, a son of one of the waitresses, who told me all about his favorite TV shows and movies, which included Wednesday and the Sonic franchise. It was fascinating talking to him and learning about his life. He liked TV and video games, which I didn’t expect from a Kenyan boy. Africa is truly so different from what I grew up believing it was, and I feel so fortunate to learn this firsthand in the most immersive and effective way.
The children’s play area at Piri Pirie’s on January 26, 2023. Toys and games were located on the left and aren’t visible in this photo. The little boy I spoke to is also not pictured.
The restaurant serves local and international cuisine, and everything on the menu sounded amazing. I ordered a mushroom cheeseburger with fries, and it was delicious. Sydney and I also ordered Shirley temples, which came in humongous circular glasses with cherries mixed inside that created a sweet and fruity delight.
Sydney and I laughing with our Shirley temples at Piri Pirie’s on January 26, 2023. Photo by Emily Lampi.
Once we finished dinner, we messaged John on WhatsApp, who had graciously been awaiting our text the entire afternoon. He picked us up at the restaurant and drove us back to the ship.
It was a perfect day, stumbling upon an unexpected Oasis that completely defied my expectations of Africa. I already loved Kenya more than I thought possible, and I was ecstatic to continue exploring the beautiful country.
